Thursday, September 26, 2013

Bikeworks is Among Highest Rated Shops in the Country

The National Bicycle Dealers has announced its list of America's Best Bike Shops for 2013, and Indian Valley Bikeworks/BW Cycle Studio is proud to have been included on the list. The program identifies bicycle retailers around the country who meet certain criteria.

All bicycle retailers are asked to complete an application that outlines goals and development of customer loyalty, and what they are doing to make their "corner of the world" more bike friendly.

Each store is visited by a mystery shopper who rates the store on appearance, web site and customer service, both in person and over the phone.

We are proud to be a part of the local community and work hard to promote bicycle safety and good biking habits. It is because of you, our wonderful customers, that we are able to do the great things that we do.

You'll see the "America's Best Bike Shops" logo around the store this year. We want you to know that it is earned, not just given to any store.

See you on the trails!

Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Who's the Real Tour de France Winner?

Jan Bakelants rides Trek's Madone 7 for a second leg win.


On Stage 2 of the 2013 Tour de France, RadioShack rider Jan Bakelants earned his first stage win, and the first for Trek’s newest race bike, the Madone 7. Trek, which is taking over sole sponsorship for the powerhouse pro team in 2014, gave us an early look at the revised—and noticeably improved—aero-road bicycle.

This is not a brand-new bike, but rather an update to the current iteration, which was an Editors’ Choice finalist this year. The most significant change is to the chainstays, which now feature a revised carbon lay-up and a tweaked shape. In addition, Trek's designers changed the lug that joins the bottom bracket and chainstay. According to Trek, both modifications are designed to improve ride feel and increase braking performance.

Just have a look at this video that highlights the improvements for 2014:


Road Brand Manager Michael Mayer explained that the new shapes work better with direct-mount style brakes, which increases power, helps the rear wheel track straight, and minimizes brake rub. He added that the bike’s new carbon lay-up, designed to improve the bike’s ride feel, is the final variant of a process that saw Trek employees evaluate 300 different combinations during combined lab-, and road testing. The new frame is also about 25 grams lighter—Trek says the bike now weighs 725 grams, once coated with the company’s lightweight U5 paint.

What’s new?

The Madone 7 is the result of a series of tweaks of the 6.9, rather than a wholesale redesign.

Weight drops by 25 grams to 725 grams, with Trek’s ultralight U5 Vapor Coat paint. The decrease comes from new lay-up designs, and stiffness is maintained.

A less sexy but likely more significant change has been made to the chain stays. They’ve been stiffened near the brake to improve braking performance (a vastly underrated part of going fast is, of course, stopping fast), and tweaked along their length to “improve ride feel.”

The previous Madone had the best braking of any frame with a integrated or semi-integrated brake system, particularly with Shimano’s new dual-bolt Dura-Ace brakes, but Trek apparently thought it could do better.

The improved ride feel comes from a bit of added vertical flex near the end of the stays, improving comfort without compromising the aforementioned brake performance.

The 6-series Madones get the same chain-stay changes, but don’t lose the 25 grams.

Project 1

The Madone 7 will be available through Trek’s Project 1 custom program, which will include new paint schemes, colors, and signature options specifically for the new frame. The program will add new component choices and a new color for the U5 vapor coat as well.

One of those signature options is the electric Leopard blue that adorned the Radio Shack bikes in the Tour de France. Yes, it is that bright in person.

Give us a call or stop by to see us. We'll work through the process of building your own custom model.

Thursday, June 20, 2013

Please Pass the Mustard...

By Ralph McDevitt


With the arrival of summer at 1:04 a.m. ET on June 21 also comes the beginning of one of the tastiest times of the year – hot dog eating season. The quintessential American entrĂ©e is synonymous with summertime. And whether you intend to ingest your favorite frank directly from your backyard grill, at a baseball game or from your local street corner vendor, there are certain rules you must abide by to be a true hot dog aficionado. The National Hot Dog and Sausage Council, which actually exists, stands by these very real rules of hot dog eating etiquette.

First of all, you must know that it is two words – hot dog. A hotdog is someone who shows off, and that is simply poor etiquette.

Secondly, condiments should be applied in the proper order: wet condiments like mustard and chili go first, followed by chunky condiments like relish, onions, sauerkraut, and cheese (shredded only) and then spices. Ketchup is unacceptable, unless you are under the age of 18.

You should take no more than five bites to eat a hot dog, seven bites if it is a footlong. Any less than that and you are a glutton. Any more and you are just showing off with your delicious redhot, which we have already established is poor etiquette.

And if you are wondering what wine goes best with your bunned, steaming cylinder of savory goodness, then just stop. Because beer, soda, lemonade or iced tea are the only appropriate beverage accompaniments. You can have wine with your hot dog, sure, but only if you want to show off. Tsk-tsk.

But the one true rule of eating hot dogs that trumps all these is this: Forget what anybody or any national council says, because there is no wrong way to enjoy a great summertime hot dog.

I hope you have a wonderful summer with lots of fun times with your family and friends!

Monday, June 17, 2013

Trek's Project One Custom Bike Program - Wow!

We might talk a lot about Trek bikes lately, but that's because they are coming out with so many awesome things lately. What's more, we at Bikeworks love being a part of it.

Trek recently announced the expansion of their unique Project One customization program to include their most popular mountain bike models. The models available for customization include:
  • Superfly 9.9SL
  • Superfly FS 9.9 SL
  • Fuel EX 9.9 29
There are about twenty-two custom options including:
  • Frame
  • Colors
  • Graphics
  • Shocks
  • Drivetrains
  • Fork, including custom colors
  • Shifters
  • Wheelsets
  • ... and more!
Come on in and our expert team can put together the look you want, and order it when you are ready.


Thursday, June 6, 2013

Adjusting Your Shimano Di2 Front Derailleurs in Ten Easy Steps

Velo News' "Ask a Mechanic" takes us through the step-by-step process of tuning Shimano D12 Front Derailleurs



A poorly adjusted derailleur can cause your chain to rub and gears to shift and drop unexpectedly. You can avoid these problems, especially on a steep climb or during other conditions by setting limit screws, adjusting your front derailleur and adjusting cable tension.

Click here, or on the image at right for the "how to" video, or, we've included the ten step process below.


Required materials:
5 mm Allen key and a small Phillip's head screwdriver

Derailleur Adjustment

1.  Set the limit screws with a Phillips head screwdriver so that the derailleur does not shift or move the chain off the chain rings.

2.  Shift so that your chain is in the lowest gear, which is the smallest chain ring in the front and largest in the back.

3.  Set the L-limit screw (the one closest to your frame) with a Phillips head screwdriver so the derailleur cage closest to your bike is about 2 mm away from the smallest chain ring.

4.  Shift to the highest gear, with the largest chain ring in the front and smallest in the back.

5.  Set the H-limit screw so that the derailleur cage plate farthest from your frame is about 2 mm away from the largest chain ring.

6.  Pull, with your finger or a pair of pliers, the derailleur's cable away from the bike to eliminate slack, then tighten the cable bolt (located on the cable pinch bolt above the front derailleur) with the 5 mm Allen key.

7.  Shift between your two or three (depending on derailleur) chain rings. If your chain does not easily shift or if it rubs, fine-tune the derailleur by increasing the tension with a shifter cable adjustment (see below).

Shifter Cable Adjustment

8.  Shift to largest sprocket in both the front and the back.

9.  Turn the cable adjustment bolt (located on the cable leading to the front derailleur) counter clockwise about three turns.

10. Shift the bike through all gears, high and low. If the chain does not transfer smoothly, continue to turn the cable adjustment bolt until it does.


Any questions? You can bring your ride into us and we'll adjust it for you OR take advantage of our Bicycle Limo Service: We'll pick it up, fix it up, and deliver it back to you! Just give us a call at 215-513-7550.

We're guaranteed fun!

Thursday, May 30, 2013

The Six Biggest Mistakes People Make When Choosing a Bike

The wrong ride could leave you in pain (or worse)—avoid these cycling slip-ups when you’re choosing a bike.


Biking is booming, thanks in part to rising gas prices and more cycling-friendly cities. If you’re just getting on board with biking—or even an experienced cyclist looking for an upgrade, you know that choosing a bike can be overwhelming. Make it easy on yourself: These tips from cycling experts will help you avoid common mistakes when you’re choosing a bike so you can get the right fit for you.

As an independent bicycle shop, Indian Valley Bikeworks is more than simply a place to purchase a bike: Unlike many of the superstore chains, we also offer maintenance packages and a wide variety of mechanic-assembled bicycles. We also have a wonderful well-trained staff of professionals eager to offer one-on-one assistance. We even have a terrific cycling club, which can be a great way for a beginner to meet other cyclists.

Buying a bike for fashion, not function. 

Many people buy mountain bikes for their gnarly looks, but never take them off-road. But riding a bike in a different way than what it was designed for can damage the bike, and be uncomfortable for the rider.

When choosing a bike, start by considering the type of riding you want to do: Are you planning to conquer bumpy trails and hills? Then you’ll need a mountain bike. There are many options of mountain bikes depending on how aggressive of terrain you intend to ride. A full suspension bike has more shocks on the front and rear, giving you more control when the trail is difficult.

Are you thinking about taking on a long-distance road ride or getting into road racing or triathlons? Check out skinny-tired road bikes with drop-handles that are built for speed and distance. If your desires are more leisurely—or you’re unsure—you may be in the market for a more general-purpose hybrid bike.

Choosing a bike that doesn’t fit properly.

We can help you with proper bike fitting. While some muscle soreness should be expected when adjusting to a new bike, numbness in the hands, shoulders or saddle area, and knee and/or back pain are signs that a bicycle does not fit correctly.

Generally speaking, you want to have about an inch between the bike and your body when you stand over the top tube, and be able to comfortably reach the brake levers and shifters on the handlebars while positioned on the saddle.

Not trying before you buy.

Every bike fits and feels a little different, so test riding is crucial. We're happy to let you take a ride around to try it out. Once you find one you like, the necessary adjustments, like saddle height and position, can be made to perfect the fit.

Choosing the right frame generally begins with testing the stand-over height, but bike geometry varies by brand and style, so the best way to find the right bike is to try out a few different models and let us help you to find the best fit.

Settling too quickly.

Beginning bikers sometimes don’t take the time to shop around, often settling on a bicycle out of convenience. Then, you run the risk of ending up with a bike that doesn’t fit correctly or you’re simply unhappy with. While bike buying doesn’t need to be a long and stressful process, like anything else, it pays to be patient and do your research. Before you buy, conduct a bit of online research, and ask experienced cyclists for their advice and recommendations.

Cheating yourself by being cheap.

While you don’t necessarily need to buy a top-of-the-line model when you’re just starting out, keep in mind that you get what you pay for. A good entry-level bicycle may run anywhere from $700 to $1,200. Remember that while a quality bike is an investment, it will run more smoothly and last far longer than a cheap one.

More expensive frame materials will be lighter, more responsive, more comfortable and more efficient. There are many wonderful entry-level models available in hybrid, road and mountain bikes. And as you move up in price, your ride quality will increase.

Accessorizing...

Along with the bike, you will need to purchase the necessary accessories like a helmet, spare tube and appropriate cycling apparel. Save some money for accessories as they can improve your cycling experience. A good pair of cycling shorts will make riding your bike much more enjoyable.

Adapted from: http://spryliving.com/articles/the-biggest-mistakes-people-make-when-choosing-a-bike/#ixzz2UoMF6nCo

Call Indian Valley Bikeworks at 215-513-7550 to make an appointment for a bicycle fitting today!

Monday, May 20, 2013

Hot off the Presses: Two New Trek Mountain Bikes

Just launched today are two amazing new Trek models: The Fuel X29 and Remedy 29, combining Trek's industry leading suspension technologies with the handling of G2 geometry, producing the best trail 29ers on the market.


The Insider Details


Trek has been the leader in 29er production for more than a dozen years. In our opinion, they make the best big wheelers on the planet. A larger wheel holds its momentum better, so you keep rolling over rough stuff and maintain your speed through the corners. Increased wheel size also decreases the angle of attack. What does that mean to you, the rider? That makes obstacles seem smaller.

On a Trek 29er, your center of gravity is lower relative to the pivot point (the front axle). This results in a more stable feeling as you sit deeper in the cockpit.

How G2 Geometry comes into play


Conventional wisdom says 29ers have sleepy handling compared to 26" wheel bikes. Trek solved that with G2 Geometry, featuring a custom-offset fork and advanced frame geometry for precise handling at low speed without compromising high-speed stability. It's why Trek 29ers handle better than any others.

Frame Technology


We know that you don't want to think about the frame: how light it is, or the stiffness of the rocker link. You just want the performance that a well-designed ride can give you. EVO Link is Trek's evolution of the rocker link from the plate-to-bolt style use on most suspension bikes to a one-piece rocker link. This lighter link provides a stronger connection point between the front and rear triangles, creating a stiffer frame for greater control with minimal weight.

Trek's designers noticed that most suspension systems attach at the bottom of the shock to a fixed frame mount. That fixed mount can contribute to a harsh ride. They solved that with Full Floater, attaching the shock to two moving linkage points so it can better respond to bumps across a wide variety of terrain. It feels like more travel, but it's not. It's smarter travel.

Pre-order Yours Today


Hey, these rides are so new we don't even have them in stock yet (as of the date of this posting). Give us a call to pre-order yours today!

Indian Valley Bikeworks | 500 Main Street | Harleysville, PA | 215-513-7550
We're guaranteed fun!

Friday, May 17, 2013

Let's Party! Trek's Mamba with G2 Geometry

High Energy Mountain Biking is the Name of the Game

Hey, this video is an "oldie but goody", if you consider something from October 2012 old! The high energy ride keeps your attention up. I think we might have linked this on our Facebook page, but here is is to have another look:



We realize that the bikes used are specialized for the video, we can still make recommendations that will "rock your cycling socks off" and are easily available to "the common man" (or woman).

Trek's Mamba Takes Center Stage


We like the Trek Mamba for lots of reasons. It's one of the best full suspension mountain bikes under $1,000 on the market. The frame is lighweight aluminum and features Gary Fisher's proven G2 geometry (see below). Cushioning the ride is a Rockshox fork that gives you 100mm of travel for this 29er.

Mores features includes Bontrager disc wheels with Hayes disc brakes, along with solid shifting from Shimano. In our humble opinions, you can do everything in the video and more with the Mamba.

What's more, a well-cared for bike can last for years, so this is also a good investment. All our bikes come with a lifetime of annual check-ups for your ride.

How G2 Geometry Works


Trek's G2 Geometry (version 2 of Gary Fisher's Genesis Geometry) delivers the ultimate ride for every trail. Genesis earned rave reviews for awesome handling on climbs and descents thanks to a long top tube paired with a short stem that moves the front wheel forward for top-notch confidence and control, while short chainstays add phenomenal traction. G2 Geometry takes these handling traits to the next level by boosting control on tight singletrack and technical climbs, too. This is accomplished by increasing the amount of fork offset (reducing trail), which makes G2 bikes steer more quickly, and by shortening the reach, which puts more weight on the front wheel for even better control and confidence. The two animations above showcase how G2 Geometry provides the perfect ride.

Come by the store for a test drive this weekend. We'll give you a little "shock and awe"!

Monday, May 6, 2013

The 2013 National Bike Challenge is Under Way


National Bike Month is off the a fast and furious roll with the National Bike Challenge and, this Wednesday marks the second annual National Bike to School Day. And it gets better - May 13th is Bike to Work Day!

Thanks to our friends at The League of American Bicyclists, we are getting all the scoop on nationwide activities that we can share right here in our area.

Healthy You... Healthy Environment

What's good for the soul and great for everyone's health? Bicycling! More biking means less pollution and healthier living. As the country fights obesity in epidemic proportions, increasing levels of bicycle usage among our youth is more important than ever.

The American College of Cardiology is also sponsoring a bike riding challenge as they encourage folks to "hop on a bike", whether it's in the open or at the gym. Just try out their Cardiosmart activity tracker and you might be eligible to win a new bike!

It's Family Time!

What's more important than a good quality bike for kids? It's really critical that the bike be sized properly for the child, and that it is fitted properly as well. It's not just the height of the bike that needs to be considered, but other kid-sized components as well, such as grip circumference.

What's hot right now? Kid's and parents are really into the Trek MT220. This bike is perfect for the 7-12 year old crowd. This is a sturdy ride, yet nimble, with a 21-speed Shimano drivetrain, making it easy for the young mountain biker to climb higher and ride further. Not to mention the great kid friendly colors.

We did a video on kids' bikes a few months ago - have another look:



Get Out and Ride!

National Bike Month is an opportunity to celebrate the unique power of the bicycle and the many reasons we ride. Whether you bike to work or school; to save money or time; to preserve health or the environment, riding is a great thing! See you on the trails!

Friday, May 3, 2013

May is Bike Month!


Family biking

Let's put up our kickstands and celebrate!

How should we celebrate at Bikeworks? How about a "tip of the helmet" to bike safety?

We're kicking things off with our first Saturday "Fix a Flat" Seminar. Just stop by the store at 9:30AM and we'll show you how to change a flat in (pardon the pun) no time flat! (We couldn't help ourselves!)

A bicycle that is properly cared for will be safer to ride, and will give you fewer problems on the road. Here are a few tips to make your ride go smoothly:
  • Get a once-a-year tune-up
  • Obey all traffic signs and lights
  • Be alert. Be visible. Be predictable.
  • Avoid riding on sidewalks
  • Always ride with traffic
  • Use hand signals
  • Wear a helmet (pictured below is our Clash Lazer Helmet - lightweight with extra rear coverage and available in four smashing color combos)
Clash Lazer Helmet
Need a tune-up? Most folks don't know that bikes need a "doctor visit" once a year, just like people. We'll be sure that everything is in tip top shape. Just visit our service page for a complete list of services. OR are you REALLY busy and can't bring your bike to the shop? NO PROBLEM! We have a special "Limo Service" just for your bike. We'll pick it up, give it a tune-up or complete overhaul, what ever it takes, and bring it back to you.

Even if you didn't purchase your bike from us, we can service it. By the way, we also service special needs bikes and wheelchairs.

We've already identified twenty-five common cycling issues, with ways to fix 'em yourself. But if you still need help with that squeaky wheel, stop by to see us! We're open seven days and are here to serve your biking needs.

HAPPY BICYCLE MONTH! RIDE SAFELY!

Thanks for an awesome Carnival!




Thanks to everyone for coming out and making the day a sweet success. The weather cooperated, and fun, food, and bicycle-mania was enjoyed by all.

Congratulations to our raffle winners:

Grand Prize: 2013 Trek 8.3 DS - Frank F.. Lansdale, PA
2nd Prize: Cycleops Magneto Trainer - Caroline D., Willow Grive, PA
3rd Prize: Fizik Arione R3 - Randy S., Perkiomenville, PA

Enjoy the slides above, or see them on our Facebook Page, and stop by if we can help with anything!

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Bontrager Tubeless Ready Wheelsets: Race, Race Lite, Race X Lite (R2, R3)


Want Better Traction and A Smoother Ride? Consider Going Tubeless. Bontrager Has Great Options in the Way of TLR Wheelsets.




(image courtesy of slowtwitch.com)
Bontrager offers tubeless ready wheels in their Race, Race Lite, and Race X Lite trims, as well as R2 and R3 level Tubeless Ready road tires in 23 and 25mm that are all up to Bontrager's standards for quality and performance.

All the wheels can be run with standard tube tires, or tubeless with the TLR system. THey are virtually maintenance free, and because of the design of the TLR rim strips, there is a low weight penalty for tubes and tires at stock specifications.

There are two ways to go tubeless with the new wheels and tires. If you bought a Trek bike that was equipped with compatible Race, Race Lite, or Race X Lite wheels, Bontrager has a convenient TLR upgrade kit that includes everything you need to make the switch: tires, rim strips, valve stems, sealant, even a valve core removal tool.

Monday, April 29, 2013

(Video) 2013 RockShox Forks and Shocks Upgrades Debuted at Sea Otter

New 2013 RockShox Shocks and Forks

(photos courtesy of bikemag.com and bikerumor.com)


With the debut of Fox's handlebar-mounted CTD (Climb, Trail, Descend) remote last year, RockShox had to step up their game. They brught out their new XLoc Full Sprint which enables riders to easily lock their front and rear suspension by the simple press of a button.
(For now the new RockShox dual hydraulic lockout is restricted to pairing with SID and Revelation XX forks, and RockShox' Monarch XX rear shock)


New for 2013, the SID and Revelation front forks were tweaked to improve their ability to smooth out the trail. Their damping mechanisms have been adjusted and improved for high and low-speed compression damping.

In addition, RockShox redesigned the rebound piston as well, incorporating their "Rapid Recovery" in both the SID and Revelation. "Rapid Recovery allows the fork to recover more quickly between consecutive bumps for better traction and control.

Next, RockShox greatly improved the Monarch's (their rear suspension system) with regard to small-bump compliance. First, they reconfigured the volume of the negative air chamber.


On top of that, Monarch RT3, XX, RL, RT and R now feature a high-volume eyelet option called HV-i: allowing for a higher volume, less progressive shocks that are lighter and less bulky. RockShox says "HV-i couples perfectly with bikes that need a little less progression, but don't need the full High Volume air can system. Lastly, RockShox is boasting new and improved seals on the shocks.

Seb Kemp of www.bikemag.com explained the last of the upgrades to the RockShox family of products — The Pike 2.0 — here. Here's a recap:

"When Fox debuted the 34 a few years back, it highlighted a gaping hole in their competitors' fork line-ups. RockShox for example, had the burly Lyrik and the much lighter Revelation, but the company needed something that cut the difference between the two and that's where the Pike fits it. The Poke features larger stanchions (as well as a stouter crown and lowers) than the Revelation, which was undergunned at the 150-millimeter travel setting when it came to particularly technical trails.

Weighing in at just a hair more than four pounds, the Pike should be popular with riders looking to add a bit of brawn to their bike's front end without also adding much in the way of weight. Since all-mountain bikes now come shod in every conceivable wheel size, the Pike is also available in 29er, 650b and 26er-compatible versions"

Check out the Pike in action in this VIDEO



Come to Bikeworks for all your 
Mountain Bike component needs.
We are located at 500 Main St. in Harleysville, Pennsylvania. You can reach us by phone at (215) 513-7550

Friday, April 26, 2013

Squeaky Saddle? Creaky Crankset? Bothersome Brakes? We've Got 25 Solutions To Your Cycling Problem.

Is Your Bike Making A Weird Noise, Or Not Working Properly? Check Out These 25 Common Cycling Issues



You fixed a puncture, and the new tube keeps going flat


If the holes in the tube are in the bottom, the rim strip may be out of position, allowing the tube to get cut by the spokes. If they're on top, there may be some small sharp object stuck in the tire. Find it by running your fingers lightly around the inside of the tire, then remove it.



A remounted tire won't sit right on the rim

Let the air out, wiggle the bad spot around, reinflate to about 30 psi, and roll the bad spot into place with your hands. By pushing the tire in toward the middle of the rim you will be able to see if any of the tube is poking out. When the tube is fully inside the tire, inflate as normal.


A patch won't stick to the glue on the tube

Apply more glue and let it dry completely, about five minutes (DO NOT BLOW ON THE GLUE) When you apply the patch, avoid touching its sticky side with your fingers.

A creaking sound from the wheels

A spoke may have loosened. If tension is uniform, the sound might be caused by a slight motion of the spokes against each other where they cross. Lightly lube this junction, wiping off the excess.

A creaking sound when you pedal

Tighten the crankarm bolts. If the arm still creaks, remove it, apply a trace of grease to the spindle, and reinstall the arm.

The large chainring flexes, and the chain rubs against the front derailleur cage.


Check for loose chainring bolts

You have removed the chainrings to clean the crankset, but now the front derailleur doesn't shift right. 

You may have installed a chainring backward. Remove the rings and put them on correctly. Usually, the crankarm bolts fit into indentations on the chainrings. Sight from above too, to make sure there's even spacing between the rings.


While trying to remove or adjust a crankarm you stripped the threads- Now you can't remove it

Ride your bike around the block a few times. The crankarm will loosen and you'll be able to pull it off.

Shifter housing rubs the frame, wearing a spot in the frame

Put clear tape beneath the housings where they rub.

Noisy sloppy shifting can't be remedied by rear derailleur adjustment

The cassette lockring might be loose, allowing the cogs to move slightly and rattle around on the hub. You need a special tool to tighten the lockring fully, but you can spin it tight enough with your fingers to ride safely home or to a stop.



The cog cassette is getting rusty

A little rust won't damage the cogs quickly, so it's not a major concern. Usually, using a little more lube will prevent additional rust, and riding will cause the chain to wear away the rust while you're pedaling.


In certain gears, pedaling cause loud skipping

There may be debris between the cogs. If you can see mud, grass, leaves, twigs, or any sort of foreign matter trapped between cogs, dig it out. It's probably keeping the chain from settling all the way down onto the cog to achieve a proper mesh. If there's no debris, a cog is probably worn out. Most often this is a sign that the chain and cassette will have to be replaced.

Front derailleur won't shift precisely to a chainring

Check that the cage is parallel to the chainrings (when viewed from above), and loosen and reposition the derailleur if necessary. If it's parallel, you probably need to adjust the high- and low-limit screws, best done by a shop.

The rear derailleur makes a constant squeaking noise

The pulleys are dry and need lubrication. Drip some light lube on the sides, then wipe off the excess.

Braking feels mushy, even though the pads aren't worn out

The cable probably stretched. Dial out the brake-adjuster barrel (found either on the caliper or on the housing closer to the lever) by turning it counterclockwise until the pads are close enough to the rim to make the braking action feel as tight as you want.

Braking feels grabby

You probably have a ding or dent in the rim. This hits the pad every revolution, causing the unnerving situation. Take your bike into the shop.

One pad drags against the rim or stays significantly closer to the rim than the other

Before messing with the brakes, open the quick-release on the wheel, recenter the wheel in the frame and see if that fixes the problem. (This is the most common solution.) If the wheel is centered but a pad still rubs, you need to recenter the brake. On most modern brakesets this is done by turning a small adjustment screw found somewhere on the side or top of the caliper. (There may be one screw on each side, as well.) Turn the screw or screws in small increments, watching to see how this affects the pad position. If you center the brake and the wheel, and a pad still drags on the rim, it probably wore unevenly from being misadjusted; sand the pads flat and recenter everything. 

With each pedal stroke you hear a click coming from the saddle

The pedal may have loosened. Tighten it.

Squealing Brakes

Wipe the rim to remove any oil or cleaning reside. If this doesn't work, scuff the pads with sandpaper or a file. Still noisy? The pads need to be loosened, then toed in; an adjustment that makes the front portion touch the rim before the back- an easy fix for a shop, a tortuous process for a first timer.

Creaking Saddle

Dip a tiny amount of oil around the rails where they enter the saddle, and into the clamp where it grips the rails. Heritage purists take note: Leather saddles sometimes creak the same way that fine leather shoes can. There's not much you can do about this.

You can never remember which way to turn the pedals

Treat the right-side pedal normally — righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. The left side pedal has reverse threads (to keep it from unscrewing during pedaling). If that's confusing, just remember this simple phrase: Back off. This can remind you that, with the wrench engaged above the pedal, you ALWAYS turn toward the back of the bike to remove the pedal. 

You installed a pedal into the wrong crankarm - The left pedal into the right arm or vice versa

You can remove the pedal, but the crankarm will have to be replaced; its threads are softer than the pedal's and are now stripped out. ALWAYS check the pedals before installing. There is usually an R for right or an L for left stamped onto the axle. 

You pulled apart your headset to regrease it, and now the headset feels tight no matter how you adjust it

The bearing retainers are probably in upside down.


Come to Bikeworks for all your maintenance needs.
We are located at 500 Main St. in Harleysville, Pennsylvania. You can reach us by phone at (215) 513-7550

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

2014 Shimano XTR M980 Series Features XTR Carbon Tubular Wheels. Superlight, Superfast.



Shimano Says the 2014 XTR has the lightest hydraulic system EVER

Continuing the Shimano XTR legacy as the industry's original premium cross-country racing mountain bike component group, Shimano introduced a new lightweight XTR component and wheel additions that elevate the performance for elite cross country racers. For 2014, Shimano XTR M980 series will see the addition of new lighter weight hydraulic disc components, new drivetrain components including a lighter bottom bracket and more durable chain, as well as ultra-lightweight carbon tubular 29" mountain bike wheels.

The Shimano XTR M980 group is the first mountain bike component range to have two separate complete groups (race and trail). There's the rider tuned concept that allows riders to mix and match drivetrains, brake systems, wheels and pedals for the way they ride. Shimano introduces new XTR Race products specifically designed to reduce weight, increase efficiency and provide a winning edge for the world's best cross country racers.

CARBON WHEELS
Designed for and proven at World Cup and Olympic cross country mountain bike competitions, the new limited edition XTR WH-M980 carbon tubular 29" wheels set a new industry benchmark for carbon 29" wheel performance. Strongly supporting 29er geometry, Shimano is only offering the XTR WH-M980 is a 29er version.  While tubular wheels may be expensive and difficult to deal with, they offer real world tangible benefits. The way they climb, accelerate, and corner are noticeably different from traditional wheels. With no bead, the tire profile becomes more round which really changes how the tire handles. Featuring a super light weight full-carbon offset rim that tips the scales at an anorexic 290 grams and 29 spokes laced to a quick engagement freehub body for perfect traction, these wheels give away nothing. WH-M980 wheels will be offered exclusively with Shimano's splined Center Lock rotor mounting for easy and quick installation.
LIGHTEST EVER SHIMANO HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKE SYSTEM
Shimano debuts its lightest hydraulic disc brake system ever to the XTR line. Shimano concentrates on 3 things with their brake development: power, stiffness, and heat dispersion.
Shimano uses an internal power level rating system and the new XTR maintains the Shimano tradition of powerful yet manageable brake engagement. Maintaining stiffness is a key component of modulation. The new XTR has a magnesium caliper, magnesium master cylinder, and a carbon fiber brake lever. (A first for shimano!) These are lightweight, high performance brakes.



ICE TECHNOLOGIES ADVANCEMENTS FOR CROSS COUNTRY
For heat requirements, Shimano uses their ICE technology of making a rotor that has 3 layers with the center layer being aluminum to draw heat. The new finned section comes from technology developed in the SAINT line of products. So now a 160mm rotor draws/disperses as much heat as a 180mm rotor used to. The new XTR brake also has a high powered hose, two piece caliper construction, banjo bolt that flows oil and keeps the two pieces together. The SM-RT99 reduces heat by an additional 40 degrees.
The XTR hubs have been improved this year as well, with improved seals, a titanium freehub body, and QR or thru axle options. The XTR press fit bottom bracket is lighter and works better than last year. Stronger sealing and less rotational drag are a few more improvements to the the XTR system.





Come to Bikeworks for all your 
Cross-Country and component needs.
We are located at 500 Main St. in Harleysville, Pennsylvania. You can reach us by phone at (215) 513-7550


Monday, April 22, 2013

Win A 2013 Trek 8.3 Dual Sport (DS) Bicycle at the IV Bike Works Carnival April 27


First Prize in our Drawing will be 2013 Trek 8.3 DS (Gary Fisher Collection).  A $609.99 Value

Streets and paths, suburbs and woods; return to the simple joys of cycling with Trek's 8.3 DS. This go-anywhere machine is road-bike fast, hybrid-bike capable and fun everywhere. It sports a lightweight Gold Series aluminum frame and a 63mm-travel suspension fork so it floats over rough roads and paths. With multi-surface Bontrager tires wrapped around big, 700c wheels any route you want to take is yours. And hills are no worries with 24 wide-ranging Shimano speeds to choose from and safe, powerful disc brakes at your disposal. Take the scenic way home. 

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2013 Trek CrossRip: The Bargain Do-It-All Bike from Trek

The CrossRip is a chugger, not a tight and twitchy ride.

 If you're looking for a disc-equipped, cyclocross-inspired do-it-all-bike, look no further than the 2013 Trek Crossrip. It's a great option as an "all-arounder" and works great as a commuter. 



It starts with Trek's Alpha 100 Aluminum frame, and the Crossrip is nicely built and finished. The carbon-bladed, alloy steerer fork is cyclocross length so that lifts the front of the bike over what you'd expect from a road fit. The resulting position is comfort-oriented; with the stem pointing down so you can flip for an even higher front. 

You can generally tell whether a company things a CX bike will actually be used for CX by looking at the gearing and tires. On the CrossRip, you find a road compact chainset (FSA Vero) and wide cassette, and Bontrager 32mm hardcase touring tires. Other touches mark this out as more of a town bike, for example the security-conscious skewers that open with an allen key, and the urban camo paint job.

(FSA Vero Crank pictured right)

So this disc-equipped commu-tourer is a bike for a bit of everything. It's very capable on the tarmac and it's perfect for unsurfaced paths too, as the beefy Bontrager tires can shed off flints and thorns easily. Another nice feature of the CrossRip Elite is the traditional bend drop bar, which some people find to be more comfortable than the ergonomic bends on the market.



The brakes are really, really good. They are Hayes CX5 mechanical discs that work superbly: lots of power and great modulation. This control and reliability makes downhilling lots of fun. This bike is good at speed, stable and reassuring with it's direct steering. 


(internal routing pictured right)


Shifting-wise, Shimano's Sora is massively better than it's previous incarnation. There's one more ratio, but the real change is from thumbshift to proper Dual Control with the downshift behind the brake lever. Much easier to use from multiple position and lighter too. The Sora's STI shifters create a nice and flat hand area and feel comfortable on the hands. They have a smooth action when shifting and pulling the brake lever. 

In the rear there is an 11-32 cassette coupled with a 50/34 compact up front. The CrossRip also comes with rack and low rider mounts too. Bontrager's Racelite IsoZone Handlebar is comfortable in all positions and the SSR stem is quite stiff.


Come to Bikeworks for 
all your Road, Mountain, and CX bike needs. Plus Much More.
We are located at 500 Main St. in Harleysville, PA. You can reach us by phone at (215) 513-7550



Friday, April 19, 2013

Bikeworks Carnival is Only 8 Days Away!


Stop by for test rides from Trek, Fuji, Colnago, Breezer and more! 


Learn about products from Seven, Sram, Zipp, Continental, Bontrager, and Fizik.

Come see what our local cycling clubs and groups are offering for rides and doing to support cycling in your area. Plus a yard sale!

Click here for a list of prizes and to learn more!

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

2013 SRAM Red Road Groupset Features Hydraulic Brakes (Rim and Disc)


images courtesy of www.road.cc

A Road Bike With Hydraulic Brakes?

A few months ago, SRAM confirmed rumors that they have new designs for road hydraulic brakes, one operating on the wheel rim and one disc version. 



Why have SRAM decided to introduce hydraulic systems for the road? They made sure to emphasize these three points in a press conference last week: power, control, and modulation.

Mat Brett with www.road.cc was able to sit down with SRAM's project manager Paul Kantor who further explains the desicion making behind the new designs.

Kantor begins by describing the ideas that went into the new design. He says that SRAM liked the concept of putting disc brakes on road bikes but weren't sure of it's benefits or draw-backs.

The guys at SRAM built a hydraulic coupler into a stem [to standard mechanical levers], put it on a steel cyclocross frame and experimented. While the hydraulic brakes lived up to SRAM's expectations, but the design was unnattractive and bulky. Their solution: make it fully integrated.

Later in the interview, Mat poses another question: If hydraulic rim brakes feel so powerful for such little effort at the lever, why would people want to go for disc brakes on the road? Kantor responds with a compelling argument: "Our hydraulic disc brake has a higher braking force at every lever force than a mechanical brake on an aluminum or a carbon rim, and more than our hydraulic rim brake. You can provide quite a bit more force for less hand effort and that's really what we like about most hydraulics. 

We think that Red mechanical and Shimano Dura-Ace mechanical brakes are pretty comparable, but with a hydraulic rim brake you are able to exceed that braking performance. On a disc brake we can create eve more force for the same lever effort. It's much more consistent wet and dry too because we are braking on a steel rotor that's consistent time and time again. That's where discs come into their own.

CEN (The European Committee for Standardization) requires that there's not more than a 20% drop off between wet and dry on a rim brake and we improve that substantially on a disc brake. It's more like a drop of 5-8% in bad conditions. Plus, it's a sealed system that's consistent over time.

You can run a rim brake engaged at about 550W for 6 minutes and you'll burst the tyre. [...] You can run a disc brake at 900W for 11 minutes and the brake doesn't boil and the tyre doesn't burst.

Once you start adding up all these testing elements you start to see more and more opportunity for a disc brake to exceed what's already out there."


You might be asking yourself: Why not just go for discs, then? 

Mat replies to that also, saying that SRAM really likes the way rim brakes ride, and that they're all about choice. They want to put many good options out there to allow the customer to make the choice. 

He says hydraulic rim brakes may eventually win out over hydraulic ones, but he doesn't think so. 

When can you afford one? Mat predicts that hydraulic disc brakes will come down in price over the next 4 years to a 105/Rival price point. He says at that point they will have to decide to either: make a fancy mechanical disc brake or see if they can push the hydraulic technology down further. 

SRAM will be selling the rotors separately. They recommend a 140mm rotor for off-road and 160mm for higher speeds on the road.

The weight is 449g per wheel (including lever, caliper, hose, and 160mm HSX rotor). The HHR caliper brake uses forged aluminum arms and a SwissSTop pad compound, and weighs in at 387g per wheel- lever, caliper, and 600mm of housing. 
The new SRAM components should be available from May to June. 

SRAM sponsored pro teams will be keen for the teams to use the hydraulic brakes, although it will be the rim version as UCI regulations don't permit discs.

While you're here, why not learn more about the new SRAM groupset? Check out our post

Come to Bikeworks for 
all your road bike needs.
We are located at 500 Main St. in Harleysville, PA. You can reach us by phone at (215) 513-7550